In my experience, you just lose too much detail. Regarding the contact prints, I would personally NOT use the "print-through" sleeves. You'll know what to be careful of the next time. Although this won't fix the film problem, you'll at least have the comfort of knowing what actually went wrong. Or if the film ever comes out blank, you can test the developer to see if it was bad, etc. If something went wrong, such as the difference you saw, you can pour the used developer back into the tank to see if you had enough. Keep this until you are sure the film is ok. Here's something I would recommend from now on - at the end of development, save the used developer in a temporary container. Hi, I agree with those who say not enough developer. Hopefully one of these methods will work, if not i will just bring it to a camera repair store, ugh but thank you for the help it has given me a good understanding of what it could be! Thanks for the help, I have to take another photo assignment this week and plan on taping up my camera-lol, and also developing by myself and making sure the reel and canister are on correctly with the correct amount of developer. I'm hoping that once I get to enlarge a negative on the enlarger I will be able to work with the focusing part. Light leak- I have also seen my camera lip where the door shuts is a little curved open. The plastic I have is not correctly clear too. When i look at the negatives on a light table they do come out clear. Do you have a flatbed scanner?ĭeveloping tank- Yes, it could have been low, we have to develop with another classmate, and mine was on the top, so it could be that, but we did add enough developer and agitated at the correct times.Ĭontact sheet- We just place the negatives in the plastics sleeves, and put a piece of glass over it, so it could be from the glass sheet or plastic. The glare of room lights on the contact sheet makes it hard to tell anything else. I'm not seeing any serious film door/hinge light leak problems - those would show in between frames too.
One of my Spanish made plastic tanks leaks like the Titanic so I just use the twist paddle agitation with it. With plastic tanks, like the Patersons and generic knockoffs, check the lid to be sure there's nothing missing - some generic plastic tanks/lids need a gasket that tends to get lost easily, or doesn't work well at all. The fit between the original metal lids and tanks can be borked by dropping one or the other, and it's almost impossible to fix them to perfectly round again. But I've replaced the leaky metal lids on my stainless tanks with newer plastic lids, which solves the problem.
If my tank leaks badly around the lid or funnel cap I'll switch to a twisting type agitation with some side to side rocking to avoid this problem. I find there's enough wiggle room in tanks for the reels to slosh around a bit without needing to leave any airspace. Some folks prefer leaving a bit of airspace. Personally I prefer filling tanks to the brim. Did the tank leak during inversion agitations? If so, the developer was working more actively on the lower half of the entire roll during the times between agitations.
#Light table negatives download
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#Light table negatives license
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